Although some prefer to cut hair with guards or use scissor over comb, it is possible to achieve a great cut expeditiously using the clipper over comb technique.
When cutting hair it is important to understand cutting lines and angles and what each will do. Horizontal lines build weight. Vertical lines remove weight and diagonal lines will help to blend. You will use a combination of these comb positions to do a haircut.
- To begin the haircut; section the top from the sides going from recession area to recession area.
- Beginning on one side, place your comb horizontally and cut a weight line parallel to the headshape leaving about 2″” of hair. Taking horizontal sections; follow the head shape from the temple to the back of the head.
- At the temple, position your comb diagonally using the the top of the comb at the guide and positioning the base of the comb as close to the head as you want the shortest point of the haircut to be.
- Repeat these steps until you get to behind the ear.
- Once you get to the back of the head, the surface area is larger. This means your comb will not reach from the guide to the nape. It will be necessary at this point to go from your guide length to the occipital area then work the occipital to the nape.
- When both sides are finished, cross check your cut at center back horizontally to be sure both sides match.
Check out this video from Rum Barber (@rumbarber)to break it all down.