Length isn’t the defining factor of a French bob. It can be translated at any length; cheekbones, jaw or even collar bone. The French bob is all about the cut, not the style. The key is not not to overwork the finished look. Think 1960’s French New Wave.

Many stylists like Holly Seidel(@hollygirldoeshair)and Ruth Roche(@ruthroche)prefer to cut the french bob with a razor. Razor cutting creates softness and allows the stylist to ‘melt away’ unwanted hair resulting in a very organic style.

Steps:

• Section hair into 4 quads (from front hairline to nape and from behind one ear to the other)
• Beginning at the nape with an inverted “V” section, take a vertical parting and begin your graduation, leaving about 2″ in length.
• The next section should pivot diagonally from the first section, cut using your first section as a guide. Your fingers will mirror the diagonal parting.
• Continue with pivoting sections, building up weight behind the ears.
• Repeat on the other side. Take shorter strokes with the razor to make a strong line.
• Create a horizontal line and remove perimeter length with the razor.
• Next diagonal section will be placed over the graduated undercut; building up weight at a lower level. Use longer razor strokes to create texture.
• As you move to the front quads (sides) your sections will become horizontal and you will determine the length of your bob.
• Use a piece of hair from the completed side to match length on the second side. Connect the hair behind the ear to the piece in front.
• Complete the second side using horizontal sections.
• Begin removing weight where needed using the tip of the razor.
• Switching to shears – take sections across the top and pull them straight up. Remove the extra length, rounding out the layers.
• Take vertical sections on the side and weave cut to remove excess weight.
• As a final touch, remove the corner of the hairline to round out your perimeter shape.

(Photo by@salsalhair, Sal Salcedo)

Watch as Ruth Roche takes you step by step through the French Girl Bob.